Archive Page 2

07
Jan
09

Go With The Flow

Our second day of treatment, the day we were turned back due to governmental interdiction, we were bound for Kiliki.  This village is close to Ubud, and therefore inland and mountainous.  Here, villages are tucked in amongst rice fields and nearly invisible to spot until you are upon them due to the lush vegetation.  Last year we worked with several villages in this area, thanks to the efforts of Victor and Kemur Van Praag, and we planned to return this trip.

We were on our way to the village of Kelusa when I received an emergency text from Frank to stop all operations.  I spoke with Vincent and he directed us to return to his house to await further information.  “I’ll send someone by motor bike to direct you,” he said, so we drove around a bit asking for directions until we ran across a young woman on motor bike who beckoned us to follow her.  Following her through what would have been undecipherable lanes in the jungle, we pulled into Vincent’s home, only to leave minutes later under the next directive: return to the village to explain to the people there what had happened and apologize.

That was a memorable and heartbreaking experience for the team, to see the smiles and friendly greetings of the village elders even as they understood we would not be able to stay and treat.  Such a situation was not too foreign to them, unfortunately.  We assured them that as soon as possible we would try to return to this village to fulfill our promise to provide aid.  There had been 200+ people signed up that day, and we were sad to load back up into the van and wave good-bye.

We were consoled by the fact that we had an hour or two to rest at Vincent and Kemur’s beautiful home before driving back to Sanur.  The team happily took in the scenery while we came to terms with our disappointment.  Staying in the moment, realizing that as we had come with open hearts to help, so we also had to respond with flexibility to the situations arising.  “Go with the flow” had been our motto at the orientation, and it was for sure becoming the theme of the trip.

07
Jan
09

Beauty of Bali

One thing I have neglected is to share scenic photos of this magically beautiful place.  In part because we are usually way too busy working to take such pictures, in part because the people and the culture tend to gather my attention, I haven’t focused on this aspect of my trip.  But it is an omission completely rectifiable: here are some beauties to share with you.

Sanur is a coastal town close to the capital city of Denpasar.  It is quite cosmopolitan and yet retains the sleepy feeling of the small fishing village from which it grew.  There is a long stretch of beach paralleled by the main road which winds and bends and generally follows the contours of the shore line.  One of my favorite features of this beautiful village was the “bei-mus” that traverse the main road.  They are a cross between private taxi and public bus: a small green minivan with two rows of benches flanking the sides, a permanently open door, a driver who collects the equivalent of .40 cents from each passenger—these vehicles drive up and down the lane.  You can flag one down, hop in and share a ride with school kids, foreign tourists, local workers and shop owners until it is time to shout to the driver to stop “dici ni” and hop off again.

bather

bather

The sky in Sanur was always changing, with stunning red and orange sunsets.  There was a shifting cloud cover running through every possible shade of gray.  My last morning in Bali, I woke at 5:30, awake and humming with energy.  I went out to the beach and was greeted with one of the most stunning dawns I have ever seen.  The ocean, all the way to the distant coral reef, was still as a mountain lake, reflecting the low-lying clouds all along the horizon.  The sky was a soft, pre-dawn lavender, and the air literally pulsed with energy.  I hadn’t brought my camera, so committed the scene to memory and responded as appropriately as I could: by practicing my qi gong and standing in “bear” to soak up the magic.  I returned later with my camera and snapped this photo of a majestic volcano dominating the horizon—one which until that morning I had no idea was there due to the perpetual cover of clouds.

05
Jan
09

Offerings

All aspects of life are marked by ceremony in Bali.  A constant interplay of human and spirit, corporeal and ethereal.  One imagines that in such a culture there is less division between what we consider to be (two) very different states of being.  This year we were not in the center of a village as we were last year.  I saw less of the daily activities of prayer, heard less of the gamelan, and yet…  there were many opportunities to experience the texture of the culture in which we were immersed.  One morning I snapped this photo on the way to our first day of treatment.

It’s one of several Taxis—all getting ready to go out for the day’s work, being blessed with an offering.  It reminds me of our translator Agus honking the Kejang’s horn as we made our way up the island, beeping for temple spirit, bridge/water spirit, dog or cat—a conversation of sorts between the automotive and supra-human … The humans don’t get that particular type of acknowledgement.  But they do get the courtesy of a face-to-face encounter when asking directions.  The time to step out of your car, let go of your momentum towards an as yet unreached goal, walk to greet this human being in front of you naked of your vehicular shell.  It’s a greeting to the spiritual aspect of what resides amongst us, within us.  A constant swirl of activity, repeated endlessly from preparation, to offering, to trampled remnants of flowers and leaves.  A kind of re-enactment of the basic truth that all is constantly being transmuted, despite any illusions or fantasies we might harbor about permanence.  And yet the flow of it, the beauty of the offering up to impermanence, embraces this truth with such sweetness, such livedness. It embraces one like the warm ocean embraces the swimmer: buoyantly and caressingly.  One hopes for this letting go, this meeting with the essence of what is…

04
Jan
09

Obama in Bali

So I brought my old beat-up computer to Bali so I could blog (and, as it turned out, write emergency letters to the Indonesian government…).  On the back of my mac was a moveon.org sticker from the election (background info).  There was one hotel in Sanur where I could actually get internet access at their outdoor bar and so I sat there to blog, wondering how in the hell foreign correspondents manage to send anything out with the slow spotty dial-up connections abroad and getting generally frustrated, when the man working behind the bar starts grinning at me and giving me the thumbs up.  I looked at him with what must have been a puzzled expression and he said one word to make it all clear: Obama!  Then I remembered my sticker and we had a conversation in which he told me that Indonesians love Obama (remember, the president-elect lived there for several years) and that he is “a man for the world.”  Wow.  How amazing to be in another country and feel so proud of my country.  A huge difference from when I was traveling in India and Europe in 2005 and people could only sadly ask “why?” how could americans be so misled as to elect Bush again?   It was a sweet moment indeed.

yeswedid

01
Jan
09

2009

Happy New Year, everyone.  It has been good to be back in Brooklyn, decompressing and writing and resting.  I’m looking forward to adding to this blog as I have time to write more about our adventure in Bali, and also to update you on new and continuing projects with GAHP.

Thanks for your support, and blessings to all into the New Year.

26
Dec
08

Homeward Bound

Writing at the Narita lounge during our 5-hour layover back to the states. Long travels and time to mull over the 2 weeks we were in Bali. Christmas morning we had a very productive meeting with our Yayasan Board, discussing some exciting future projects. It will be good to be home, back in Brooklyn, and have time to process all that Bali has offered.

img_0231

sunset and mt. fuji from narita airport lounge

25
Dec
08

The Practitioners

Here are some action shots of the practitioners who came to Bali.  Everyone took the GAHP continuing education classes, raised funds for their own airfare, solicited donations for supplies, and put in a whole-hearted effort to bring their compassionate care to the people of Bali:

Katie, Frank, Grainne

Katie, Frank, Grainne

Julie

Julie

Matthew

Matthew

Linda

Linda

Dan

Dan

Ann

Ann

Renate

Renate

Mimi

Mimi

Jen

Jen

24
Dec
08

Up Again, Down Again, Getting Stronger

We are learning more background information to our situation.  We have recieved great support from the Yayasan members.  We have had amazing meetings with brilliant people, all trying to help us meet our mission.  While this trip will not bring us back into the field, we are growing stronger as an organization.  If we can succeed in our goals, we will become an even stronger presence here in Indonesia.  I can’t say yet what the outcome will be, but we have great plans in place.  Once the pieces settle, I will let you all know.  We have another meeting scheduled for Christmas Day.  More than half of our group will return to the US, myself included, in the next couple of days, depending on our ability to change airplane tickets.

Meanwhile, Pak Dharma, one of our sponsors, has offered to lend his car and our translator Agus so that some of the team can go to see more of the island.  Renate, Ann and Matt took him up on his offer.  Linda is visiting new friends in Candidasa.  Dan, Frank and I stayed behind to sort out and store our supplies for next time.  Julie, Mimi and Katie are preparing to leave tomorrow.

We all met at Cafe Batujimbar (our local expat hang out who serves a great latte and everything from Nasi Campur to Spaghetti) for Xmas eve dinner.  And then reconvened after for those of us suffering from “Bali Belly”, otherwise known as dysentery.

Daily treatment helps a lot!  Well, it’s the same treatment we give to villagers who complain of “ma” or digestive upset.  So we know this protocol very well!

24
Dec
08

Hopeful

Back to Sanur for a lunch time meeting. An appeal is being made on our behalf by our yayasan. We are hopeful that we might be able to start up again. If we can, we will go out as one group and try to maximize our time. We are planning a day of re-organizing of supplies, and an afternoon of training for the practitioners to hone our model that we have been working out in the field.

23
Dec
08

The Model

So while we are here working on paperwork, I have a little time to write about the model we are using here in Bali as our treatment delivery.  Which is a formal way of saying: how in the world can we treat 200+ people in a day effectively, compassionately and efficiently with 2-4 practitioners!

Last year we found that when we went to more remote villages the need was much higher that what we saw in the Bumi Sehat clinic.  In Ubud, there were still a few options for people to engage with the health care system, though even there the options were not great and often hugely expensive.

But imagine walking into a village of 300 or 500 families, NONE of which has seen a doctor before.  There’s 2,000 patients right there.  Most of rural Bali is quite poor with families living on $1/day.  People do intense physical work in the rice paddies, carrying heavy bundles and working the land without electricity or running water.  Even though the climate is mild compared to the northeast US, constant rain makes for constant damp and we see a lot of conditions related to “cold-damp” such as painful arthritis, asthma, colds and flu.  Under these conditions, people often have a limited diet of rice, few vegetables and small amounts of meat and fish.  Children of 10 years often look 7, and we warn practitioners at orientation not to judge a child’s age by their appearance.  The adults also often look much older that we would expect coming from the US.  I often had the experience treating people last year who I assumed to be in their 50’s or 60’s only to find they were much closer to my age of 42. So with the help of a member of parliament (who was up for re-election and wanted to make good on his campaign promise of helping villagers with better health care), we had targeted poor and remote areas where we felt we could do the most good.

We divided up our group of volunteer practitioners into two groups of 5, one group to stay in the northeast area of Karangasam–a poor region on the slopes of volcanic Mt Agung and famous for its rocket-fuel version of fermented palm sap: Arak.  The other group would work around southern Bali for the first week and then travel up the central corridor to Singarajah in the north and finally finish in Negara in the west.

This way we would maximize our ability to reach poor villagers.  Each team consists of 4 practitioners, 1 logistics manager, and 2 translators.  In addition to our herbs and acupuncture supplies, we are also bringing 12 “beds” or portable mattresses with bamboo mats that we can set up in the community banjars to create a make-shift clinic.  We also used plastic chairs to create community style acupuncture where we can treat small groups at the same time.

Here are some photos of Sunday and Monday’s village visits to see the set-up:  In the first one you can see the villagers waiting to be interviewed.   Then, once they have been interviewed and we have determined their chief complaint they are sent to wait at the table until a bed is available for their treatment. This was Dan’s first village in Selat, and had 250 people registered for GAHP’s first visit.  Dan also roped off the banjar–a great idea to help eliminate the chaos of people wandering through our treatment area so they can check out what is happening…

Independently of each other, Dan and I both came up with similar systems for managing the crowds.   Organize the larger crowd, determine the chief complaints, and treat in small groups.  The village leaders also helped us in this task by organizing the crowd and having everyone register first and then come in groups of 20.

However, in my first village we didn’t have our matresses until later in the day–and space was very limited.  So we chose to set up chairs and treat as many people as we could seated. I also didn’t think of roping of the banjar so you can see that the space is a bit more chaotic.  If you look closely you can see multiple practitioners working at once, and also a youth leader helping us to moxa (the guy in the green shirt kneeling to do moxa in the lower right corner).  Aslo present: me doing an intake with Matt following to do the acupuncture, and Julie (blue shirt center, back to the camera), needling a patient.

So necessary to this model are our amazing logistics managers.  On this trip we were lucky to have two powerhouse moms from Wyoming–who have not only taken all of the GAHP continuing education seminars, but also took Tui Na Level One so they could help with body work.  Katie is taking this picture and she is the one seeing the flow of the day, making sure we have all the necessary equipment sorted and available, and jumping in when needed to perform tuina or do moxa! We really would have been suffering without Katie and Mimi helping out in this way.

Also critical to our success were our 4 highly capable translators.  These guys rocked!  They were all young recently graduated students and incredibly skilled and enthusiastic to help out.

Chrisma and Agus                                                   Maye and Nisa

When Agus learned that we needed to go up to Amed to meet with Dan’s team, he volunteered to drive us up there.  That is how we learned that in Bali whenever you drive past a temple, over a bridge, see a cat or a dog, you must honk quickly to greet the spirits there.  And that when asking directions, it is very rude to roll down your window and stick your head out–instead, you must get out of the car to talk to the person respectfully.  Poor Agus had to do that several times as we made our way up the island!